One month ago. First day in Catania, my new city. Just getting to know my new co-worker and first friend in Catania, Simona Russo. Simona zips us in her Smart car up a thoroughfare that runs along the azure sea.
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One month ago. First day in Catania, my new city. Just getting to know my new co-worker and first friend in Catania, Simona Russo. Simona zips us in her Smart car up a thoroughfare that runs along the azure sea.
The Mediterranean.
And I think to myself, “Not too bad.”
Simona talks a mile-a-minute and weaves between other, larger vehicles. When we arrive at our destination, a man who happens to be standing on the street helps guide Simona into a tight parking spot. We exit the car and Simona produces a few coins from her purse, which she drops into the hand of the good Samaritan.
“And what generous people, too,” I think.
It’s not until a little later, when it happens again - a scruffily-dressed hangabout waves Simona into a spot, essentially an easy parallel-parking job that she could have maneuvered on her own – that I understand.
Simona confirms that these parcheggiatori abusivi, unlicensed parking attendants, are extorting a pizzo, or protection money. They stand in the street and will “watch” your car for a bit of money. If you don’t pay, there’s a possibility you’ll return to find a fresh ding in your fender. Or worse.
Parting with a bit of pocket change to ensure a vehicle’s safety is easy. A lot easier than repairing damage or going to the police and in so doing exposing oneself to risks far greater than a scratched paint job.
And it’s this pizzo – the same that shopkeepers pay to buy protection for their stores - that gets kicked up to bosses, and bosses’ bosses, and helps to fund all manner of illegal activity.
“Welcome to Sicily,” I think and immediately swat away the thought.
Sicily’s worldwide reputation as the cradle of the Mafia pains modern day Sicilians. It hurts business and tourism. And it in no way suffices in defining this beautiful, complex, history-rich place.I don’t want to reinforce the stereotypes.
The Mafia, as Sicilians point out, is no longer what it once was. Mafiosi are no longer shooting each other and innocent people in the streets (much). Mafia exists on an institutional, political level. A problem of favors and string-pulling more than anything.
And it is this, not the pocket change, that has created immeasurable collateral damage. I see it with my own eyes; young people that remain in the university system for a decade because no matter how hard they work, getting a job demands connections. Knowing someone. And consequently young Italians flock from Sicily and Italy in general. And so on and so on.
For now I’m looking forward to learning more about Addio Pizzo this week, the organization that fights the system of the pizzo.
And I’m grateful that I don’t have a car.
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